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AFC Flag Expedition #6:
Cross River Gorillas - The Most Endangered Primate
Expedition Artist: Daniel Taylor
Purpose: To observe the critically endangered Cross River Gorilla in its remaining habitat, conduct the first artistic field study of the primate in the wild and support conservation efforts through fundraising and education.
Location: Lebialem Highlands, South West Cameroon
Scheduled For: November 2007
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World premiere of a high-realist portrait of the Cross River gorilla
Thursday, October 2, 2008

Vancouver, BC, Canada  – The first ever painting of a Cross River gorilla, Africa’s most endangered primate, will be unveiled to the public on 19 October 2008, at the Mountain View Conservation and Breeding Centre, in Langley, BC, Canada.

The author of this unique portrait is Canadian artist Daniel Taylor, who travelled along with his wife Ginette to the jungle of south-western Cameroon’s Lebialem Highlands, to learn more about this critically endangered species – with only 250 to 300 individuals left in the wild.

In 2007, an Artists for Conservation (AFC) Flag Expedition was organized through a partnership with the African Conservation Foundation (ACF), whose overall goal is to change the use of natural resources to one in which the needs of human development in the region are reconciled with biodiversity conservation.

Besides the unveiling of the painting – finished in the end of March – the event at the Mountain View Conservation and Breeding Centre will feature a short film about this unique expedition, which also included awareness raising activities with local communities, including art workshops with local artists and children.

Prints of the Cross River gorilla painting will cost $250 each and will be for sale on site or through the Art for Africa website (www.art-for-africa.net), with 80 per cent of the proceeds going towards the efforts to save the Cross River gorilla and its habitat.

A multifaceted conservation project
The money raised with the prints sales will be used to create protected areas for the Cross River gorilla and help the local communities set up alternative income generating activities by providing microcredit to villagers.

Hunters and former poachers will be paid to use their thorough knowledge of the area to become field workers, eco-tourism guides and rangers. The community will be encouraged to breed cane rats and porcupines for food, thus reducing the demand for bush meat.

“Tree planting, ecotourism and cultivating plants for medicine, nutrition and fuel are also part of the strategy to reconcile local community needs and great apes conservation”, said Arend de Haas, Conservation Director of the African Conservation Foundation.

Environmental education is a pivotal aspect of the whole project and it is directed both towards children – who will be part of the solution in the immediate future – and towards other community members. As a result, local fons (kings), chiefs and government officials show a great interest in making a positive change.

More information can be found at the following websites:

http://www.art-for-africa.net

http://www.africanconservation.org

 


Photos
  • Cross River Gorilla painting
 
FULL CIRCLE
Sunday, November 25, 2007

A journey is but the start of a new beginning and how true that is proving to be.

Our dream has come true and this goes well beyond a personal choice of helping African wildlife in crisis. It is the heartfelt need to turn the tide and contribute in a very direct way to the conservation of the critically endangered Cross River Gorilla and other species.

Through the program in Cameroon, and the support created through the paintings, we are able to fulfil needs of the local communities while conserving the rainforest and endangered wildlife. I strongly believe in this approach. It will allow both the present and future generations to prosper and enjoy their rightful inheritance. Who are we to take this away from yet unborn generations? The planet is in our hands.

The arrival in Africa was to play fully to my imagination reaching far beyond its limits in thoughts and imagination. Not one novel of mystery, movie nor play could possibly have reached a climax of such precedent imagination as this was. A reality never evoked to mind before.

African nights, humid air, musty rooms, bustling towns, extraordinary people, daily challenges, no showers, Cameroon time, people walking down the streets, long drives, potholes, checkpoints, marketplaces, fruit, monkeys on a stick, villages along dirt roads, gorillas, chimpanzees, roosters and Fons …

A Fon is the local name for a king or chieftain in this region of Cameroon. Though once independent rulers, most Fons were brought under colonial and later central government rule. Still, the Fons maintain semi-autonomous regional councils and have some jurisdiction in their traditional land.

We met with Fons and chiefs in the villages we have visited. Each Fon has a palace. Large buildings, nowadays made out of bricks and concrete with many ornaments. These buildings have an important function in traditional ceremonies and celebrations. During meetings and workshops in these palaces we discussed this expedition and the project activities.

In general the Fons, chiefs and other community members were very interested in collaborating on finding solutions for important local issues, which cover the development of the communities, the sustainable management of natural resources and the protection of endangered species. It became clear to us that, in order to tackle the root cause of the problems, it is crucial to work on all three levels.

Through the field research, education in schools, a workshop with prominent and emerging Cameroon artists, and the observation of gorillas in a primate rescue centre, we feel we have made a full circle. This end is a new beginning. The beginning of a new painting, to start with!

We would like to thank Jeff Whiting and colleagues of Artist for Conservation, Arend de Haas and Louis Nkembi of the African Conservation Foundation, ERuDeF and all team members for making this unique expedition possible. It is due to the contributions of so many dedicated people that there is hope for the Cross River Gorilla in South West Cameroon.

I hope you have enjoyed reading about our adventures and that they will inspire you to support these conservation efforts. If nothing is done, this unique primate will disappear within the next 10-15 years. I fear it could be less than that. Together we can make a real difference here!


Photos
  • Nyango is an ambassador for her species.
 
SKETCHING AND OBSERVING
Monday, November 19, 2007
The remaining days were spent observing and sketching the many primate species that are currently living in Limbe Wildlife Centre. A real privilidge to be able to see such rare species as the drill and mandrill, the guenons with their great variation in colours, baboons, and of course the chimpanzees and gorillas.
 
The smaller monkey species in the Centre include the Agile mangabey, Gray-cheeked Mangabey, Red-capped mangabey, Tantalus monkey, Red-eared guenon, Mona guenon, Putty - nosed guenon, Preuss' guenon, Moustached guenon, and the Crowned guenon.
 
It is really inspirational to find out that with my two passions, wildlife and art, I can make a real difference here in Cameroon. Many mornings and afternoons were spent in the Centre overlooking the enclosures, sketching or just observing the behaviour of the animals. I think the AFC Flag Expedition is a wonderful program, and Limbe Wildlife Centre is one of the best places to learn about wildlife, conduct research, and create art works.
 

Photos
  • Gorillas playing
  • Gorilla feeding time
  • Chimpanzee feeding time
 
A BANNER DAY
Saturday, November 17, 2007
Today, once again, we take advantage of our chance to move about the Wildlife Center as we please.

The main focus of the Center are the primates, but there are also many other species of endangered animals to see. It is an amazing environment to witness! Roaming about the grounds, we watch the antics of the chimps as they once again try to entice us closer to their enclosure. No chance as we have already learned our lesson. They like to toss rocks as people pass by!  We move on to the Drills and Mandrills enjoying their antics. The mandrill males, in particular, have such beautiful colours. The males show great strength and agility in their surroundings. The females prove very protective of their babies as we take notes and photos of them.

After our rounds, we were looking forward to the viewing of our Gorillas and Chimps. They are already relaxed against the cool walls in the relentless heat of the afternoon. Occasionally, you hear the chimps in the distance screaming and pulling rank and mischief with their fellow comrade. But not one gorilla in this section so much as lifts a head. All they care about is staying cool!

We are taken to an enclosure by one of the Center’s caretakers. We have the privilege of 'meeting’ a very old Mandrill, who has been at this Center since its beginning. His name is 'Man Alone", because he spended his first years in the center in a cage alone. Most of his teeth are now missing, where he once bared huge canines. With his impressive presence, he still demands much respect by his fellow contemporaries and his power is also felt by us!

I draw a few more pictures, then after these several hours in the heat and humidity, we make our way back to the Center’s main building. I am asked to draw a few large portrait gorilla pictures on a banner for the children to colour. I'm very pleased to do this, as also is Ginette. She shows off her talent by drawing the 4th gorilla image.

The banner is to welcome the Taiping Four gorillas returning from around the world. After four years of insurmountable, bureaucratic red tape and haggling they are finally being returned to Cameroon in a couple of weeks. I wish we could be here for their homecoming! The fellow from “Going Ape” was telling us that he will have the privilege of following and filming the full travel and return of the apes to the Center.  What an amazing feat!


Photos
  • Man Alone
  • Drill male and female
  • Drill mother and young
  • Preparations for the Taiping Four Event
 
CATCHING UP
Friday, November 16, 2007

After yesterday’s eventful day we were in store for a day of well deserved rest.

This day looked to be another warm day. Due to the extended rains, this area by the ocean never seems to have much sun. That's fine because, if the sun was to come from behind the clouds it would be scorching HOT!

Before leaving to have our breakfast we reorganize our belongings. We downsize from 3 suitcases to only having one.  Other than our personal needs, the Cameroonian team will eventually inherit all of the equipment and materials we brought over from Canada.

On the open air patio of the hotel we overlook the Atlantic Ocean. It is lovely to just sit and watch the birds fly about trying to find whatever debris may have washed up on shore, listen to the waves crashing, and stare off to the islands in the distant. Our breakfast consists of sliced bread, small packets of strawberry jam and steaming, hot cups of lemon tea. Just perfect!

We use this day to catch up on the logbook.  We walk over to the Center and I take more notes and sketches of the animals.


Photos
  • Lowland gorilla
 
LIGHTS, CAMERA, ACTION!
Thursday, November 15, 2007
The day starts quickly as we rush about readying ourselves for this important media extravaganza!

The entrance fee to the Center is free to the public.  With great thanks to the African Conservation Foundation who has paid the Centers’ grounds admittance fees for the next few days, the public will have the privilege of unlimited free access to the Center and Art workshop.

It is only a 10 minute walk to the Center from our hotel, but we need a truck for all our equipment and art materials. When we arrive there is already a small group of our workshop artists there. They are excited about their day in the spotlight, and passionate about saving the Cross River Gorillas and their habitat.

It is amazing to see so many of these young, fresh artists prepping their canvases and various other mediums. We are curious about a fellow working with corrugated metal. He will be working out of doors as he says he needs to cut and pound away with a hammer. It will be quite interesting I'm sure!

But, first things first. All the artists are gathered to the front of a gateway which looks into a primate’s compound. This is a firsthand opportunity to see the primates who have just been released into their grounds. For many of the artists, this is their first time ever to see a gorilla or chimpanzee!

Everyone has been forewarned that the primates may come charging toward the fence and to please stay a reasonable distance from this electrically charged fence.  And, if anyone so much as has a cold or transmittable sickness, not go near the animals please as they, like humans, are very susceptible to illness!

The primates are then let loose from their enclosures. There are many “Wows” and “Ahhhs” from the enthralled Artists. The antics of these animals are breathtakingly AMAZING! They are so humanlike in many ways. The artists were all carefully taking note of the animals.

The mediums used by some artists consisted of white glue mixed with basic colours, and strings, dirt, sand, sticks, ripped up cardboard, or any natural resource to create an individual, special piece of workmanship. It was very interesting to see these gorgeous displays of work!  Everyone stuck to the theme in creating pictures of the “Cross River Gorilla".  This was truly giving a boost to an incredible cause of the preservation of a fast diminishing species.

The art is very colourful and so diverse in style! One is made to look over again and again at the creations in progress. We can feel a grand sense of honest pride in all of the artists. They have so much to be proud of!

How is the fellow out front working with the corrugated metal? His project came together in a way least expected. One at first would think he was having a hard time with his creation, only to find he has created a masterpiece of metal, glue, soil and colours! The eyes actually turn around in their sockets!  This one you definitely must see to believe!

Suddenly, a deafening thunderstorm stuck with all its fury, ushering in high winds and rain. Pelting, heavy rains are heard on the metal roof as our already low lit building becomes ever darker. This doesn't seem to dismay anyone, as they all continue happily away at their creations.

As if opening up to a new beginning, the News Media arrives just as the storm subsides. The camera lights are a welcome display, as are the cameras gently poking over the artists’ shoulders.  The artists are happy knowing that their work is presented to a large audience. This is a chance to raise awareness of the need to preserve the gorillas and their habitat, as well as a chance to display their beautifully composed pieces to the viewers throughout Cameroon.

It was time now for the personal interview. We explained to the press and rolling movie cameras our reasons for the Art workshop.

Ginette and I are ushered over to a table where, with lights and cameras about us, we are asked a multitude of questions.  Questions such as: Where are you from? What will your art do towards the preservation of the primates? What will the artists in the workshop do toward the project?” Ginette gave eloquent answers, well beyond the questions asked, leaving the journalists pleased. When asked:"Can’t we simply put all the remaining gorillas in a fenced in area, populate them, and then release them?". She answered, quite wisely "What if we would do the same with the people in this room, and then destroy their houses. Where would you go afterwards?”.

It is not only the Cross River Gorilla that we need to protect. It is also its habitat. Because where would we release the gorillas when their habitat is gone?

They asked Louis what his perspective was on the gorillas, their habitat and the diminishing population. They wanted to know what this would mean to the local and global community, in trying to save these highly endangered animals. A very well educated man, he gave very precise and satisfying answers. The journalists could learn much from him.

I was asked by a few radio reporters a question: "Mr.Taylor. You are a great man. It is said that behind every great man is a woman. Is that true?" I quickly retort an honest answer to a very male oriented audience," Well, behind every great man it should be said is a very great woman!" They all laughed in agreement.....I hope!

At the end of the day the artists packed up all their belongings. But they are leaving their beautiful art at the Center for the exhibition, so that other other park patrons can enjoy their artwork. It was a long day of excitement, and after taking pictures with everyone, we shake hands and part our ways. We all have a sense of great accomplishment!


Photos
  • Artist Group Photo
  • Artist Group Photo 2
  • Artist Max Lyonga
  • Art Talk
  • Toshman at work
  • Press Conference
  • Press Conference 2
  • Press Conference 3
  • Newspaper Interview
  • Artist Eyabi Lambert
  • Exhibition
Videos, PDFs & Other Downloadable Files
  • Cross River Gorilla Art Workshop
 
SMALL REVELATIONS
Wednesday, November 14, 2007
We are up by 7:00am, packing to leave for Limbe. Unfortunately, there is some delay because one of the team members is sick. There is no medical help for her here in this remote forest, so she has to be transferred out for medical attention.
 
Soon though, we are on our way. As we leave, we pass by a large tea plantation. We take some photographs and video here.
 
Limbe is by the sea and in a beautiful area. The place where we are staying is in the Limbe Botanical Gardens and within walking distance to both the town and the Limbe Wildlife Center. This center is a primate rescue centre that is taking care for gorillas, chimpanzees, mandrills, drills, baboons and smaller monkeys such as guenons and mangabeys. What a wonderful environment to be in. While here, we are to view the only captive Cross River Gorilla which is at the Limbe Wildlife Center.
 
It is very hot and humid, so the best time to explore is in the late afternoon. Unfortunately, our time is limited and so we are off to visit the Wildlife Center at noon. Thankfully it begins to rain, cooling us on our walk to the Center.
 
We spend the day studying, taking notes, sketching and photographing the gorillas, in particular Nyango, a female Cross River gorilla. We very much enjoyed watching their social behavior, their feeding behavior and amazing climbing skills. Later back to our place at the ocean, we chat about our past and future efforts in saving this highly endangered species. It sends shivers down my spine to even think that they may soon become extinct!
 
After dinner, as we make our way to our room we feel the evening, ocean air fresh against our warm faces. The view is breathtaking! In our little hut, the cool breeze gently blows across our bodies. As we listen to the distant roll of the waves, the sound lulls us into a fast sleep. Tomorrow will be another amazing day, while we conduct our long awaited "Art Workshop” and give media interviews.

Photos
  • Sketching Chimpanzees
  • Observing gorillas
  • Daniel & Ginette Taylor
  • Gorilla feeding behaviour
  • Preparation of painting
 
RADIO DAY
Tuesday, November 13, 2007
We awake excited about starting our day of media opportunities.

Today we are off to the radio station. We are scheduled to air live at 8:00am but, due to unforeseen circumstances, Louis arrives late. We miss our allotted time and the office manager informs us that we will have to do the interview tomorrow. We are already on our way out, but then she calls us back to say that we can go on at 10:00am! YES!

Before our interview we quickly drove over to a Fon’s (King’s) home that was nearby. We were greeted by a very kindly, young Fon, who asked us questions pertaining to our cause and particular expedition. He also discussed his thoughts on the matter. Then, we went outside his home to take some photographs of all of us together. Now it is time to go to the radio station.

I must say that the 20 minute interview with Arend, Louis, Ginette and I went over VERY well! We discussed the conservation cause giving precise information, along with lighter, funny personal stories.  It was a wonderful time of publicity for such a noble cause! Let us see what these scattered seeds may bring.

After the interview, we try to find some lunch. Our bellies are aching for food as we hadn’t eaten yet today. We settle for some bread and cheese that tastes so-o-o-oo good!
 
We also had an interview today with Charly Ndi Chia, Editor-in-Chief of The Post - a very nice person and a great journalist.
 
At 4:00pm we meet with the local Artists at the office. We discuss the art workshop program to be held at the Limbe Wildlife Centre. They realized it would be a perfect venue to display their talent, while also promoting primate awareness. Everyone is greatly looking forward to this event.

I use the evening, in the motel, to prep my own painting. It is a small portrait of a gorilla’s head which will be displayed at the art workshop program at the Limbe Wildlife Centre.

 Its 10:30 at night and I’m bushed. Good night.


Photos
  • CRTV Radio Interview
  • Interview with The Post
  • Preparation of painting
 
A DAY OF PREPARATIONS
Monday, November 12, 2007
At Louis's office we were preparing Press releases and sending letters to a variety of offices for the forth coming media event.

We meet one of the Artists, of whom will be presenting his work during our art Workshop on the 15th. A very liable young fellow of whom is greatly looking forward to the day along with his other fellow artists. I also find out that he is the local papers cartoon satirist! Excellent story teller and cartoonist and he says he's never drawn an animal before let alone a Gorilla! It should be an amazing experience for him to be sure.

Later we are dropped off at an Internet Cafe, in the middle of town, as Louis drives off to his home. We attempt to transmit emails to the kids but are lost in the trying as the computers are not only in French, but terribly slow! so we are looking forward to another time that will allow us to telephone the kids hopefully VERY soon as I'm sure they are all worried by now!

It was soon getting dark, after a long day of mostly waiting about with letters and info transmissions, we had to walk our way back to our hotel in the darkness of night. It’s strange but, not once do we feel threatened by the evening masses about us!

A pickup truck rolls by with one of the  6 fellows in its back yelling at us "White man-white man!" that was interesting in the fact it reminded us that WE are the minority in a mostly black country. What a trade of thought that is!

Hungry we make it back to our musty hotel were we ate and promptly fell into a restful sleep dispute the noisy street sounds and dirty surroundings.

Tomorrow another day.


 

 
MONKEYS ON A STICK
Sunday, November 11, 2007
Today was to be the day of our team searching for the Cross River Gorillas but, unfortunately there is no let up of the unseasonable rains! Louis arrived this morning with the bad news that the roads and trails are obviously far too risky for travel. We are upset by this as our time is so very limited in finding the gorillas. We lost two days in Mmockmbie and the breakdown of our truck yesterday took away more time. It is all very time consuming and frustrating! It is decided we will leave today for Buea to begin our TV, radio and newspaper promotions scheduled for the 15th.

On the 6 hour trip to Buea, we stop in for a short visit at Louis’ family home. We enjoyed meeting them, but were soon off again.

We stop at a large roadside market were everyone wants to sell us food!  Louis buys some food stuff for his return back home, but unfortunately for us we are unable, health wise, to buy anything.

Much further down the highway we are abruptly moved to pull over to the roadside. We are shocked to see a lone vendor selling poached, dead monkeys hanging from strings on a stick! Louis, Arend and I get out of the truck and walk over to the seller’s bench just pretending to be “tourists” ignorant of the illegal catch.

We ask how much they are selling for and were they catch them. A semi-truck roars past on the highway blowing the monkey carcasses in the breeze, as another poacher approaches us with a full sack of dead monkeys. For a joke, he pulls one out of the sack to try to scare us!  In mock response we jump back and laugh, but inside we realize how serious the bushmeat situation is.

We ask to photograph the monkeys but they adamantly refuse. Unbeknownst to them, I am filming the whole scene with the camera on my belly!  Finally, a fellow agrees to some photos, as long as we pay money for the privilege. We pay the man while I secretly keep videotaping.

One fellow tries to shock me by displaying smoked, dried monkeys on a single square stick. And truly it is sickening! Suddenly, a raised voice is heard as one of the poachers realizes that Louis is a conservationist! Quickly they take down the monkeys displayed, anxiously throwing them into an awaiting bag. With them all yelling, we make haste to our truck thankful when we are safely away. I feel so grateful that I was able to take a video of all we had just experienced!

It is dark when we finally arrive in Buea. We stay in a decrepit hotel called “Hotel Mermoz”.  It is not very clean but, at least we get a much needed, hot shower. We add some warm water to our dried dinner and enjoy our meal. To us this feels like a luxury hotel!

Tomorrow, we will prepare for our new expedition into a soon-to–be-protected forest. We find out that we must find porters to carry our belongings (including pots, dishes and food). 

Another interesting day awaits us.

 


Photos
  • Monkey on a stick
 
BACK TO SCHOOL
Saturday, November 10, 2007
We are now in the town of Menji. When we awake it is 5:00 am.

On the agenda today there is another school session. Hopefully it will be more relaxed. We all had a sound sleep, and that sure helps the mind cope with the day’s upcoming experiences!

We are realizing that it is a monumental chore just finding a place to relieve oneself. But, it is ever so much more complicated for a woman way off in a village with people watching your every step!  Well, fortunately for Ginette, a place is always found albeit not to our normal standards! The rule of thumb is, "you go where you can find a place to squat!" Easier said than done when you are a woman! It is so much easier for us fellows.

The road, as it was in the last day of travel, is very bad. The bumping and lurching of our bodies this way and that is an exercise all in itself. But we gradually make our way to this next school of excited, waiting children.

At the school they do not have a generator for electricity. So, we simply set up the notebook laptop for the children to watch the primate video clips. Again, I set to creating the gorilla image on the chalkboard while the drawing materials were handed out to all the children. It was another wonderful time and as before a difficult task choosing the four winners. Afterwards, the teachers and our group gathered together for a lovely traditional meal and soft drinks.

Later, a local woman asked that we please come along to see her kitchen in the village, which was just below the school. She was so excited when we decided to go that she grabbed Ginette by the hand and lead us all the way down the slippery road to her home. Some of the people greeted Ginette, while some of the others were excitedly exclaiming "White woman, white woman!"

The home, like most other small village establishments, consists of three buildings. The one on the right is the woman’s. The middle building is her husband’s and the one to the left is his other wife’s. The woman proudly shows off the two room building. Inside, directly above our head are the racks of drying corn for seed and on the dirt floor is a fire pit with an iron rack to cook upon. In the next room she keeps her modest cooking equipment and cupboards for her cups and dishes. She is so proud! I'm sure she is the envy of most villagers having such a lavish set up. They are such wonderful and kind people!

Tomorrow, we look forward to our next expedition all the while hoping the rains will stay at bay.

 


Photos
  • School Art Class, Njentse 1
  • School Art Class, Njentse 2
  • Award winner, Njentse
  • Group Photo, Njentse
 
A MYSTERY NIGHT & A FACE OF WISDOM
Friday, November 9, 2007
The heavy, unseasonable rains continue to fall. We are advised not to go on this next expedition as the pathways in the forest are almost impassable. The team itself is unsure. Even if they go out, the gorillas take refuge from the rain so they will be even more difficult to find.

Louis suggests that Ginette and I go to the next village to see for ourselves the local life in a very poor compound. Wow! After living in the other small villages, it’s difficult to comprehend that even worse living conditions exist. But, then this is rural Africa. So we agree and plan to move tomorrow.

Little did we know that it was going to be a long, last night full of mystery. Our tent is set up within a building, in the office, to keep us out of the rain. Just like the night before, as we are falling to sleep we are jolted awake to noises around our tent. Immediately sitting up, Arend and I turn our flashlights toward the sounds we just heard. Nothing is to be seen in this dark, musty room. Not so much as a sign of a mouse! Shaking our heads we lay back down. We gradually dose back to sleep but, then suddenly, we hear sounds again. This time the sounds are close to the tent and then on top of the tent itself!  Again, we quickly shine the flashlights out into the dark void searching for what has caused these sounds. We find nothing! 

Desperate for our sleep, we decide to pull down the tent and put it up again outside onto the veranda porch. Even though we are outside we can still hear sounds around our tent. Thankfully, a heavy rain storm begins to pelt the tin roof above our tent. This soothing sound drowns out all sound of the night, including the mystery noises. Finally, we sleep!
 
The next day we make our way to the remote Njentse Primary School. The road in unexplainably difficult and wonder often how our Ol' truck makes it through all the ups and downs of the so called roads, but it does due to Louis' driving skills.

We arrive only to stop in a small contained area where it is very hot and humid. Neverthless we are looking very much forward to this 2nd school of performance.
The building is small and looks very very old and this is were we would show our film to the children. A generator is set up just outside the building.
 
As Arend and Louis set up the video equipment Ginette creates a screen on the old brick wall with a white cloth given to us to project the film on. The same cloth has been used by the 'Animal Planet' team used for his screening of films for the adults in the village, the day before.
 
Let the show begin!
 
Louis instructs the children to pay rapt attention as the Gorillas and Chimps they will soon see will be the very ones they create drawings of......You hear the hummm of the generator and smell the diesel fuel in this small building but it doesn't seem to distract the children from the task at hand as they watch with delight and humor the images flashed across the screen.
 
During the film the darkened room opens up to a sliver of light as an elderly gentleman is escorted past me to his special seat. Its the Fon, the local King, in all his regal splendor. He is there to encourage the children's learning and education although he is totally blind!
Occasionally I look over at him and see signs of concern as well as smile upon his face as he listens to the film and the children's responses to the film. Soon enough the film is over as the classroom is dismissed to meet with us at a larger building to paint at.
 
Walking over to the Fon I'm am moved to see his great face of wisdom and am directed to shake his hand. Gently he shakes mine quietly asking" Could you cure my blindness?" Unfortunately he is informed that this will not be possible but inside myself I wish it was in our power to do so.
 
We make it to the next building were the children anxiously await our arrival. In two and half hours it will be getting dark. We set up the children's drawing supplies as quick as possibly, with the teachers all along helping and encouraging the children as the light is fading fast in this natural lit building.
 
After the children are finished with their drawings and paintings, we chose 4 winners: 2 boys and 2 two girls - but of course all the paintings are magnificent!
Prizes are then given out and we prepare our journey back from the village on the 'not-so' good road - in the dark this time.
 
This road proves more difficult to travel then when we had first traveled! We get stuck in a huge trench pulling us over and over again back into its muddy grips! We all get out of the vehcile and help pushing and in that way managing out of the problem and gleefully make our way back to the field office.
 
Its good to be back but satisfied with another amazing day of education with the children.


Photos
  • Great Apes Film Showing
  • Great Apes Film Showing 2
  • Atonga Primary School
  • School Art Class
  • 2nd Prize Winner
  • Children Singing
 
A COLOURFUL DAY
Thursday, November 8, 2007

The school is out in the middle of nowhere. The roads in this area are in a very bad condition which makes travelling difficult. This trip is no exception, but eventually we make it.

The school is a large, long building of handmade bricks. It certainly serves its purpose for the local children. The adults and children alike gather around our truck. There is a cheering crowd of excited children as we prepare to unload our gear into the school. The children's anticipation is high, as is our own excitement.

We explain to the children that we must go to the larger building at the King’s (Fons) palace to show the film. We will come back here later for the art class. WOW - the excitement was overpowering!  The children swarmed across the large playing field to the King’s palace some 2 kilometres away!

We set up the video equipment at the Fons palace out-building.  As the children waited outside, there was plenty of pushing and shoving as they were greatly looking forward to coming in! When we finally opened the doors the rush of children into the building was loud and quick.  As many children as possible crammed inside. Others still outside, looked in through the many cracks in the walls! The children giggled as they watched the animal antics played out on film. Most children had never seen gorillas or chimpanzees before!

As soon as the film was over the children rushed back to the school. We had all the art materials prepared for teaching.

Ginette and the others handed out paper and pencils to each of the 40 kids, while I drew a very simple drawing of a gorilla upon the blackboard. The children copied it with the occasional correction of the teachers who reminded them to "pay close attention!" Although I drew a large circle for the gorilla’s head, I encouraged the children to have fun with it and make the head any size they liked. Also the teachers needed to be explained that the children did not have to copy my drawing exactly.

When we had completed the drawing of the gorilla, the paints, paint brushes and bowls of water were handed out to each child. Since the colours black and brown would have been too boring, the children were given red, yellow and blue. This was done to encourage them to paint the gorilla any way they liked. It all worked out amazingly well, as each child enjoyed to make their very own creation.

We walked around to each child commenting and complementing their individual work. Now the hard part....we had to chose the 4 best paintings! Needless to say they were ALL fabulous! But in the end we had to choose 2 boys’ and 2 girls’ pictures. Every child though, (including many children outside the class) was given some chewing gum and a balloon. It was fun to see so many faces chewing away at their gum!

The winners each received a prize. The child who came in 4th was given a set of pencils and sharpener, the 3rd a pastel set, the 2nd a stuffed animal and the 1st a Gorilla T-Shirt! They all had their photographs taken with the artist. The paintings we had chosen would be taken along with us. The African Conservation Foundation would hold this contest at other schools and then the top 4 paintings from each school would be used for an inter-school contest. The final winners will be selected at a later date and an appropriate prize awarded. This will include a guided tour in a nature reserve or sanctuary.

But for now, it was clean-up time. Afterwards we were invited to the principal’s office where we, along with the principal and a few teachers, talked and enjoyed a pop together. As we visited a cool mist floated in through the windows making it a very memorable moment. 


Photos
  • Great Apes Film Showing I
  • Great Apes Film Showing II
  • Great Apes Film Showing - Teachers
  • Art Class - Preparations
  • Art Class - Kids Painting
  • Art Class - Handing out paint
  • Art Class - Contest - 1st Prize
  • Art Class - Contest - 2nd Prize
Videos, PDFs & Other Downloadable Files
  • School Art Class Fossimondi
 
ORGANIZATION
Wednesday, November 7, 2007

Oomff! We awake this morning with absolutely every muscle in our legs crying out for relief.  So we decide to use some of the day just to walk around the village to work out some of the cramping.

We clean our tent and reorganize our supplies. Soon everything is put in order. We realize how important it is to keep the itinerary accessible as so much of our important needs can go astray. That is something we cannot afford to happen!

So we spend the day hobbling around the village playing with some of the kids. We gave them a few balloons to play with and they were so appreciative - even over this small novelty. Their football is an old, tattered, flat soccer ball, but they still have fun kicking it around. They play with a hoop made from a bicycle tire and push it along with a stick! The younger girls use a long vine for a skipping rope, and they seem to be quite skilled at this! We pick some native flowers and photograph some of the kids along the dusty, red dirt roads. Eventually we end up at the gate where we arrived back from our amazing trip into the valley yesterday. We take a photo of this "Gateway to Hell".

We noticed that all day a baby sat on the cold, dirt ground dressed in nothing but an old shirt. A half starved dog would come by and actually clean up after the baby messed itself!  It was so very sad. Occasionally, one of the older kids would pick her up, only to soon place her back on the ground.  The mother, I suppose, had left the children to their own devices since the women were off working in the gardens.

Back at the village we are greeted by our long awaited team. They all arrive looking exhausted. Their expedition took great strength and fortitude! After our greetings we asked the inevitable, "Did you find the Cross River Gorillas?", "I'm afraid not…no gorillas or chimps in sight. Only their nest and feeding sites.........".  That is too bad, but we are all pleased they tried so hard. We also know that we will soon have another chance at it, but in a different location. It was so good to see them back safe and sound from such a treacherous long trek.

It is chilly now, as the early evening opens up to the cool mountain mist. The poor baby is finally picked up and brought into the house.

Aidan comes again for a quick visit, and we find out that he also has come down with dysentery.  "Very common", he says.  He has had it many times while in Africa. I give him 3 pills to help his problem, and he is very grateful! He hasn't really eaten in 4 days, even vomiting whilst he was filming a segment for his series! I know how he feels.

Tomorrow we teach at a government primary school. All the supplies are ready for our first session of teaching the local children. What an amazing experience to look forward to!


Photos
  • Faces of Cameroon
 
WE MOVE ON BUT...
Tuesday, November 6, 2007
We awoke this morning to an amazing view of the grand valley floor below. 

Feeling every muscle in our legs ache deeply with a pain never felt before, we all consider the possibility of locating the gorillas in the valley today. One of our guides “Play-Boy” hesitates when discussing the "rock", which is actually a huge rock shaped like mountain. He says,"There's witches around it" and would prefer to walk a distance away from that location.

It is decided that both Ginette and I would hold up the travel. Since it is going to be very tough terrain the decision is made to split up the team. Ginette and I will be going back up the mountain. Louis, Arend and the others will continue on to the valley below in order to do more surveys. We quickly film some interviews with Louis displaying the valley layout and then ready ourselves to travel out.

We sadly say our good-byes and best wishes to our separating team. We send with them our hopes of them finding the gorillas.

Ginette and I are led back up the treacherous 5 km mountain trail by a very likable young lad of 16. He is carrying one of our heavy luggage bags and a case upon his head. With great patience he leads us on and understands when we need to rest here and there. The ascent is much more difficult than the descent was and having the sickness didn't make the travel any easier!

Exhausted, and at long last, we hear a distant crow of a rooster letting us know that our destination was near. We pass through one gate.....then the final gate that we now affectionately call "The Gateway to Hell"!

This evening, as we rested, a man named Aidan Woodward arrived to deliver information to us. He is a filmmaker for the famous TV Station “Animal Planet”. They are filming in Cameroon for the African series called “Going Ape”.  We discuss both his and our project, which makes for a delightful evening of good conversation and laughter.

Later, after we heat up our packaged meal, we gently lay our aching bodies into the warm, dry beds awaiting us in our tent. We fall quickly into a well-earned deep sleep.


Photos
  • Gorilla Nests
  • Gorilla Nests 2
  • Dramatic views
  • Valley Floor - Early Morning
  • Rainforest tracks
 
FINALLY!
Monday, November 5, 2007
It’s THE long awaited morning......We make Expedition! Our gear has long been in preparation and our inclination to go is high.

As artist of this first expedition, my highly anticipated wait is now over. My dreams of descending deep into the Lebialem Highlands seeking the “Cross River Gorilla” are now being realized.

We are on the slopes of Mount Bamboutous and will have to make a steep 5km descent down slippery pathways consisting of boulders and rock like trail formations. The path was rarely level and rarely would we rest until we reached our first base camp.

It was hot and humid even though the mountain air is considered quite cool compared to the valleys below. Our back packs, each weighing about 60 - 70lbs, are loaded with food goods, camping materials, water, cameras and so forth. I am also carrying other essential items such as art supplies and my journal. Thankfully, porters are provided to carry our other equipment and materials for this two day trip.

Down, down we descend watching the vegetation quickly change before our eyes. We realize we are now entering the habitat of the gorillas and chimps. This is an area never visited by tourists.

Our guide is a man we call “Play-Boy” due to the fact that the compound we are staying in consists of his many wives and children. When asked how many children he has he replies, ”I'm not sure 20, 30 children… lots". At one time he was a farmer and had to kill the gorillas that would raid his fields. In protection of his plantations and for the “bush meat”  his large family required, he recalls, "I was forced to shoot these amazing animals as well as the chimps but, now no longer as all the gorillas and chimps are forced away to distant areas". These are the very same distant locations we will try to penetrate in hope of finding the ever elusive Cross River Gorillas.

Along the trail we realize that there is a lack of forest sounds. There are no noises made by monkeys and other mammals and most birds.........They are all gone! They have been killed or frightened away. This reminds us that these forests in Cameroon are known as truly "Silent Forests”. A name we wished never existed.

Only a third of the way into our trip I was struck with a high fever that we would soon discover was dysentery. We believe I may have gotten it from a local meal that I had eaten just a couple of days prior. My legs were feeling weak and at times I shook uncontrollably.  I quickly became dehydrated and often had to run into the forest to take care of other symptoms. Needless to say I fell behind the team but urged them to continue on. Ginette and Arend seem to have understood this and had the team wait periodically so that I could catch up and not lose my way in this dense jungle. I feel quite proud of Ginette as she continues on her way. She does not complain, even with such a difficult task of carrying her amazingly heavy back pack. She is strong in every way!

As the predicted heavy forest rains begin to fall upon the canopy above we start to get wet. As for me, this rain is a blessing as it keeps me cool from my ever present fever.

At long last we make it to camp. It’s a small plot of earth consisting of a hut that “Play-Boy'’ had once used as a station home.  It overlooks the forest valleys far below. What an amazing view! This, we are told, is the second level area in which to survey and search for the gorillas. Now, there is a much steeper descent that we must travel down immediately if we want to reach the valley before the quickly approaching night. Ginette and I consider this but, then request to stop and we sleep over night here.

As a cool thick mist settles in, we commence setting up a cold-camp in our wet clothes. Luckily, we find some damp clothing at the bottom of one of our cases and quickly change. We then make a dinner by applying water to one of our dehydrated food packs and eating some packaged salmon. It all tastes wonderful on our empty stomachs.

As I recount this day, I note that we saw some gorilla nest sites. Gorillas make a nest every evening. Our other team members also found several trails and feedings signs but in a different section.


Photos
  • On our Way through Gorilla Land
  • Jungle Fever
  • Highland Views
  • Tented Camp
Videos, PDFs & Other Downloadable Files
  • Land of the Cross River Gorillas
 
The Beginning!
Sunday, November 4, 2007
Waking up early in our tent, about 5am, still in Mmockmbye. We now need to rush our belongings together for the expedition. However, we soon find out trouble has opened up as two of the chiefs disagree with our expedition. They still believe the project will lead to a loss of their agricultural plots in the forest and to a loss of livelihood and hunting opportunities. They apparently were not convinced at the gathering hall the day before. Our porters are stopped from coming along with us. But we can not afford the delay… 
 
We decide to move on to Fossimondi village, and set up our base camp there. Unfortunately this is the long way around and much more arduous of trek into the Lebialem Highland forests, but we don’t have time to wait a couple of days.

Stopping at this very impoverished village, we take our luggage off the truck to meet with a local chief who would be our guide during the field work. We are greeted by many happy excited woman and children, which all turned out to be his! The people love to shake our hands with smiles of welcome! The people here are poor but they make the best with what they have. We prepare for our next day expedition into the highland rainforest. Can’t wait!!


Photos
  • Cooking in Fossimondi
 
Too Many Chiefs, Not Enough Indians
Saturday, November 3, 2007
We wake up in our tent in the village of Mmockmbie. Today we arranged a meeting with the Fon (local king) seeking his and the local chiefs’ permission to travel through this area to one of our predetermined field locations of the expedition. This village is close to the place where a group of Cross River gorillas was last seen in the rainforest.

At a gathering hall, an old open window make-shift building behind the palace, some 30 chiefs commenced with discussing our reasoning of travel. Much debate amongst the chiefs was about the long term consequences for their agricultural plots, deep in the rainforest. Many questions are directed toward Louis, a wise and eloquent speaker, as he explained that the project would benefit both the people and wildlife.

Voices of the chiefs are expressed loud - with the Fon, a quiet young man in his early 30's, sitting at the far end of the darkened room. We sat properly for two long hours trying to understand the wording due to the various accents of French and English peppered greatly in Pidgin. One chief walks over to us yelling loudly in our faces!

After the gathering we are invited to the upper floor of the Fons palace were he privately speaks with us in a very soft voice. He apologizes for the fact that, as guests in his village, we were to be honored and should stay overnight in his palace, but the facilities were not yet in place. He urged us to also find resources to construct and expand his palace. This was an issue that falls outside of the mission of the project, but he agreed to let us pass through his area. Unfortunately one day is lost. Today was to be our day of trek into the jungle – hopefully tomorrow!


Photos
  • Where is the Palace?
  • Mmockmbie - Fon's Palace
  • On my way to the Fon
 
Climate Change
Thursday, November 1, 2007
We finalise the expedition itinerary. This is a day of buying more needs, in particular our water, and later in the day we are invited to Louis’ home for a visit with his family and a traditional Cameroonian meal. The meal consisted of boiled ocean fish, a paste called okra, and garry for dinner and fruits for desert, along with a beautiful bottle of white wine. It was a meal never before experienced and a lovely time was had by all. Thankfully today was a day to climatize and to continue familiarizing ourselves with our new environment.


 

 
Arrival in Douala
Tuesday, October 30, 2007
Departing our plane in Douala in the evening, a deep forboding humid heat greats us. We are hoping our luggage has arrived intact, food, clothing, equipment, things we will all depend upon throughout our expedition. Will it all be there? Will it be enough?
 
The Douala terminal is bustling with people all searching for their luggage on the antiquated turn table. After some anxious time we finally receive all three of our luggage. All intact. Louis, are now new-found friend, and a man of many hats, happily greats us, directing us to his waiting truck. Along the way we are being hassled by some older kids but were soon dispersed by the airport guards.
 
Soon we are on our way to well-needed rest in a Buea hotel. A musty, decrepit one bedroom suite. Sounds of people and automobile horns are loudly heard in a bustling town late at night. We are so happy we brought our own food and water.

We are to stay three days to become familiar with our surroundings. The people, streets and buildings seem so shanty as do the great many vending stores. To the locals the shops are just as exciting as it would be for us shopping in downtown Vancouver.

Everyone we meet is happy despite the grey conditions they must endure. “Hello, welcome” is the casual greeting. We buy a few materials needed for our expedition for the porters as well as some extra paint for our art classes with the children. It was a full day.

 


 

 
Epilogue
Monday, October 29, 2007
It is strange now contemplating the journey to the Cameroon was so foreign to realise. To actually become a reality the mind is so filled with imaginative thoughts. Romantic movies filling thoughts of what Africa should be, will be. Adventure novels bringing to mind mysteries unknown from the corners of the dark continent.

Will this expedition be to my expectations? Will I actually see the ever reclusive Cross River gorilla? And to know I will be the first artist ever to paint this wonderful animal in his natural habitat.

For all the twist and turns this expedition has brought to us, I believe, an appropriate title: ‘Monkeys On A Stick’. It is not a child’s toy flipping about on the end of a stick with a string, but actually poached monkeys, smoked and dried on a stick. A heart wrenching vision indeed.

I am sure you will find in many ways a vision in thoughts, a common thread if I may, will come into play as you follow this journey making a full circle.


 

 
PRE TRIP ANNOUNCEMENT SCRIPT & VIDEO
Friday, October 26, 2007
Hello. My name is Daniel Taylor. I am a professional high realist wildlife artist.  
 
Along with my lovely wife Ginette and through the generous support of the Artists For Conservation Foundation, Planet Organic, Mr. Arend de Haas of the African Conservation Foundation consisting of professional field workers, biologists and conservationists, we will be undertaking an unprecedented flag expedition deep into the remote highland rainforests of south west Cameroon to participate in field surveys and visit primate sanctuaries for a first time ever detailed field study, sketching and photographing of the most endangered primate, the Cross River Gorilla which is in dramatic high risk of becoming extinct within our very near future - with only 250-300 alive in the wild! 
 
Please follow along with us on an exciting documented adventure as we conduct educational workshops creating mural paintings together with school children in three local villages helping to improve environmental awareness and attitudes of local communities toward these amazing great apes. 
 
On the Artists For Conservation website you will be able to closely follow the expedition on what would hope to be daily video, photos and journal reports. You will also be able to follow the adventure closely using the schedule and maps supplied. 
 
We know you will enjoy this adventure, so please.....we welcome you all along  :>)

 
Videos, PDFs & Other Downloadable Files
  • Cross River Gorilla Expedition Announcement
 
 

DISCLAIMER: The views, images and figures expressed in this web log are those of the artist and do not necessarily reflect those of the Artists for Conservation Foundation (formerly the Worldwide Nature Artists Group).
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